THE ANTI-AGING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AT DR. SUSANNE VON SCHMIEDEBERG
The anti-aging skin care line by Dr. Susanne von Schmiedeberg focuses on the hero ingredient L-Carnosine. In addition, the individual products of the series also contain many effective active ingredients that are known to effectively counteract skin ageing.
Ingredients
Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHA for short, is very effective at cleansing the skin deep into the pores. They consist of very small molecules and can penetrate deep into the skin. They assist the skin in cell renewal and loosen dead skin cells from the surface. Due to their water-soluble nature, they can improve the skin’s moisture and elasticity, and lead to a more even and fresh appearance. Fruit acids such as citric acid and lactic acid are among the most popular AHAs and are popularly used in skin care to achieve optimal results in cleansing and soften fine lines.
Allantoin is a proven and multi-active active ingredient, widely used in skin and scar care. The active ingredient promotes cell proliferation and accelerates cell renewal and regeneration. Due to its versatile properties, it can increase the moisture content of the skin and thus provide soft and smooth skin.
Aloe Vera contains a variety of different ingredients such as enzymes and ferments, non-essential amino acids, essential amino acids, antioxidants, minerals, trace elements and vitamins. Together, they preserve the skin’s moisture and make it feel smooth and even. Aloe vera is thus the perfect moisture reservoir to protect the skin from dryness. In addition to this, it already cares for the skin during cleansing and has a cooling effect.
The anti-aging complex consisting of chrysin, a matrikine peptide, and rosemary extract fights all signs of skin fatigue and supports skin regeneration.
Argan oil is an oil from the seeds of the fruit of the argan tree, rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E. Its moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties help soothe and smooth flaky, dry and irritation-prone skin.
Once the skin is well moisturised, it is also important to keep the moisture in the skin for as long as possible. This is where the skin barrier comes into play. It works in both directions: On the one hand, it prevents moisture from escaping from the inside of the skin to the outside, and on the other, it protects against harmful environmental influences to which the skin is exposed. The guarantor of a strong skin barrier is called beta-glucan: This is a polysaccharide that covers the skin like a protective mantle. It has a soothing effect and is therefore an excellent choice for sensitive skin.
Betaine from wild mallow (hibiscus sabdariffa) activates all essential moisturising mechanisms of the cell for plumper and deeply moisturised skin. It stimulates the osmosis activity of the cells and the transport of water through the cells, while strengthening the skin barrier.
BHA (beta-hydroxyacid) – also known as salicylic acid in technical terminology – is a secondary plant substance that has its function in nature as a messenger substance. Salicylic acid is mainly found in willow bark but also in meadowsweet and it is also extracted from these plants. Salicylic acid has a keratolytic effect, softens cornifications and opens clogged pores (chemical peeling).
The special matrix of clays combined with lipids and amino acids creates an immediate smoothing and softening effect. In addition, bentonite has an anti bacterial effect
Borage seed oil is obtained from the seeds of borage. Borage seed oil is the oil with the highest proven content of gamma-linolenic acid, which has outstanding anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties. Borage seed oil provides soft and smooth skin while strengthening the skin’s protective mantle. It also has a soothing and anti-irritant effect.
Brightening Complex, consisting of small-molecule hyaluronic acid with alpha lipoic acid, makes the skin appear more even and reduces pigment shifts. Alpha lipoic acid is a sulphur-containing fatty acid that occurs naturally in our bodies. It is considered a real all-rounder against free radicals, environmental toxins of all kinds and against the resulting accelerated cell ageing. Excessive sugar in the blood promotes minute inflammation in our cells, including our skin cells. The cells thus age much faster. The skin becomes visibly more withered, flabby and wrinkled. More brown spots appear, and the skin as a whole becomes more coarse-pored and uneven. And it is precisely this process that alpha lipoic acid can stop and even partially reverse. Because during the night, melanin production also runs at full speed. The Brightening Complex reduces melanin production and thus also the formation of pigmentation spots.
The bush clover complex is a perfect anti-fatigue booster for stressed “jet-lagged skin” and ensures a powerful and fresh complexion. It helps synchronise the circadian rhythm of the cells and contributes significantly to smooth skin and an even complexion
The Camu Camu fruit is one of the most vitamin C rich superfruits in the world. The natural vitamin C from the Camu Camu plant acts as a powerful antioxidant and protects the skin from free radicals
Calcium is involved in energy metabolism in the epidermis. Calcium acts as a signalling molecule for the keratinocytes and thus helps to improve the barrier function of the outermost skin layer.
Castor oil is a true all-rounder when it comes to skin problems. It not only gives the skin more elasticity, but it also has a supporting effect against skin impurities and age spots. Shea butter is also known for its moisturising and anti-inflammatory effects. The two beneficial whilst protective active ingredients create a gentle and at the same time effective care of the skin through their lipid matrix and give it strength and shine.
Ceramide NP repairs the protective mantle of the skin, strengthens the skin barrier and reduces moisture loss. Ceramides are lipids, i.e. fats, which are produced in the sebaceous glands. They are, so to speak, the “glue” that holds the cells of the uppermost skin layer (the horny layer) together. They protect the skin from dehydration caused by evaporation, environmental toxins, bacteria and other influences, improve skin density and help the skin achieve a healthy glow. If these important substances are missing, the skin is less able to retain moisture, it becomes dry and more permeable to pathogens that can cause irritation and sensitivity, as the skin barrier is weakened.
The chem. UVA, UVB and broad-spectrum protection filters guarantee protection against the different wavelengths of UV light. They are compliant with the Hawaiian Reef Act as they are free of oxybenzone and octinoxate. These substances are suspected of harming the health of fish and corals, and severely disturbing the marine ecosystem.
Chronogen-peptide balances the circadian rhythm of the skin and activates vitamin D production. Chrono-peptide supports the regeneration processes during the night. During the skin’s nocturnal resting phase, regeneration mechanisms run at full speed to restructure DNA and stimulate the DNA repair mechanism. Chronogen activates protective and repair peptides that specifically influence the skin cell’s internal clock and its circadian rhythm with overnight express action against wrinkles and lines. It also stimulates vitamin D production and makes the skin wake up fresh.
Collagen booster peptides, such as tetrapeptide-9 and tetrapeptide-11, activate collagen formation and improve the cohesion of the dermis and epidermis. The result: sustainable, long-term wrinkle reduction and more firmness in the skin.
EGF, also known as Epidermal Growth Factor, is a pure synthetic peptide that stimulates cell renewal in the skin. To do this, the EGF molecules dock onto the cell organelles and send out a signal to the collagen and elastin-producing cells in the deeper layers of the skin to regenerate. This has the positive effect that the skin now increasingly resorts to its capacity for self-renewal. Lines and wrinkles are visibly reduced and the skin structure is strengthened.
Protease and subtilisin are known to promote the reduction of excess keranocytes (horny cells of the epidermis) while stimulating the production of new epidermal cells. This natural regenerative process gives strength to the skin and re-strengthens it with each application. A protective skin barrier that supports the internal balance from the outside.
Chlorella and proteins from white lupine promote the formation of cell adhesion proteins and strengthen the mechanical strength of the skin. Forskolin has a vasodilatory effect on blood and lymph vessels. It promotes the removal of excess tissue fluid and therefore has a detoxifying effect. Caffeine activates fat metabolism, which indirectly tightens the tissues.
Phytamines from gentian root are effective against dark circles and bags under the eyes and make the eye area appear more awake and youthful. Works against UV-induced glycation in the eye area.
The plant extract from the seed of the mountain plant glossy privet (Ligustrum lucidum) works as a cell energy booster and gives the skin youthful freshness in the morning. Due to better processing of oxygen in the cells, energy levels increase and cell mechanisms are more active. Fine lines and wrinkles are visibly reduced.
Glutathione is a highly effective antioxidant composed of three amino acids. Oxidative stress and free radicals, in addition to saccharification of the cells, are other important reasons for accelerated skin ageing. And this is where glutathione comes into play: the active ingredient renders free radicals harmless and specifically prevents oxygen radicals from damaging or even destroying more skin cells.
The complex of glycolic acid and L-arginine is one of the best known and most popular amino acids in facial care. The combination makes glycolic acid particularly well tolerated by the skin and causes mild exfoliation. Exfoliation gently removes dead skin cells from the skin surface and activates the natural process of skin desquamation. In combination with other fruit acids, the glycolic acid complex thus supports the skin renewal rate and ensures a soft and smooth skin appearance.
The natural extract of green tea is especially known for its anti-inflammatory effect. It has a calming effect on irritated skin flora and rebalances the skin, the so-called microbiome. Green tea protects the skin from stress and the demands of everyday life.
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract is obtained from the pulp of the sea buckthorn berry. Due to its high content of carotenoids, it has strong cell regenerating, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. In addition, it has anti-irritant properties and helps to reduce cracks in the corneal layer of the skin.
From the seeds of the honeythorn (Gleditsia triacanthos L.) certain molecules are extracted in a special sustainable extraction process. These attach themselves to the skin‘s surface and form a 3D biopolymer matrix, which forms a tightening film on the skin‘s surface. Wrinkles are visibly reduced immediately and the skin is smoothed.
The “hyaluronic filling spheres” work in a similar way to hyaluronic acid. They are deposited in the upper layers of the skin and cushion the skin from the inside, thus reducing small wrinkles. They immediately make the skin look plumper and lifted. Micro-small dehydrated “hyaluronic filling spheres” are freeze-dried and can thus penetrate the top layer of the skin. The special thing about them is that they accumulate more underneath the wrinkles, where they bind the moisture from the skin and swell up, pushing the wrinkles outwards. The lifting effect occurs after one hour; the maximum effect is achieved after 5 hours.
Hydro-tripeptide activates and increases the skin’s own hyaluronic acid production, thereby increasing the skin’s firmness and resilience.
Jujube extract is obtained from the leaves of the Sidar tree (Ziziphus spina-christi), which can be found throughout the Middle East and is widely used as a nutritional and medicinal agent. Besides the antioxidant effect of the leaves, they are also particularly rich in minerals and enzymes. Jujube extract has a reversible effect on skin ageing and effectively counteracts the saccharification of skin cells by so-called A.G.E.s (Advanced Glycation End Products), dissolving already existing sugar bridges (A.G.E.s) and restoring elasticity to already stiffened fibres. It thus gives the skin back its elasticity and resilience.
The extract from the aryurvedic medicinal plant Andrographis paniculata can reduce symptoms of tiredness and stress by stimulating important regulatory receptors (endorphins/cannabidoids) so that metabolic processes are better regulated again. This can reduce dark circles under the eyes, eye shadows, eye puffiness, which are often caused by tiredness.
The active ingredient Kigeline, extracted from an African trumpet tree plant, supports the moisture management of the skin thanks to the high content of micronutrients. The micronutrient flavonoids have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and protect the skin from free radicals and thus from oxidative stress. Oxidative stress accelerates the process of skin ageing and leads to a poorer skin appearance. Kigeline thus ensures well-hydrated skin and the skin becomes plumper. In addition, the active ingredient tightens the skin and makes it feel smooth and supple.
Konjac root extract is known to leave a pleasant moisturising film on the skin. It binds moisture in the skin and smooths the skin’s surface. It also acts as an antioxidant.
Lactil is a mixture of natural moisturisers and serves as a substitute for the skin’s NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor). By the way, a mixture, that acts similar, already exists naturally in the skin. The so-called NMF ensures that the skin is well moisturised and retains moisture in the skin. In this way, it helps the skin to keep its moisture balance in equilibrium – perfect for dry skin.
L-arginine is one of the most important amino acids for the skin and is especially essential for building it up. The active ingredient calms the skin and reduces skin irritations. In addition, the skin barrier is strengthened, skin damage is regenerated and the pH value is stabilised.
L-arginine is also involved in increasing cell turnover as well as collagen formation.
L-Carnosine consists of two amino acids – alanine and histidine – and is found in the human body. It helps the skin retain its firmness, elasticity and youthful beauty in a variety of ways. However, L-carnosine levels decrease bit by bit as we age.
What causes skin aging and how does L-Carnosine work?
The so-called saccharification of the skin (glycation) is the main cause of faster skin ageing. In the body, so-called A.G.E.s (Advanced Glycation End Products) are formed, molecules made of sugar and proteins, which glycate the skin and thus accelerate the skin-ageing process.
Saccharification deprives the skin of its elasticity and causes wrinkles to appear early. L-Carnosine reduces saccharification of the skin by preventing adhesions of collagen and elastin fibres. L-Carnosine ensures firm, smooth and radiant skin, but it can do even more. As an antioxidant, it reduces skin ageing and contributes to an even complexion. Studies show that the active ingredient also supports cell renewal and even prolongs cell life.
Conclusion: L-Carnosine is indeed the miracle ingredient, which counteracts skin ageing in many ways.
It is impossible to imagine anti-aging cosmetics without hyaluronic acid, because it is a true multi-talent among beauty ingredients. What makes hyaluron so valuable is its ability to bind water in the deeper layers of the skin. By significantly improving the skin’s moisture content, it fills wrinkles and creates a visible plumping effect. The skin appears as if plumped up from within and is noticeably more elastic. The Power Serums, Youth Booster Double Serum, Hyaluronic Eye Patches and Body Cream from Dr. Susanne von Schmiedeberg contain low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, also known as short-chain hyaluronic acid. This has a particularly lasting effect, as it penetrates deep into the skin and is stored there. This makes hyaluron the perfect thirst quencher for particularly thirsty skin.
Lupine has been valued for thousands of years for its beneficial active ingredients. White lupine is rich in low molecular weight glutamine-containing peptides and oligosaccharides.
These have a positive effect on the synthesis of epidermal proteins and lipids. This prevents transepidermal moisture loss and maintains the skin barrier.
In addition, lupine extract stimulates natural lipid production.
A plant cell lysate from the Mediterranean strawflower Helichrysum stoechas activates lacunae formation in the skin. This supports the formation of moisture depots for long-lasting hydration of the skin.
Milk proteins are biofiltrates of fermented lactic acid units, rich in cystine, methionine and vitamins H and B6. The biotechnologically obtained active ingredient has a balancing effect on sebum production, by regulating two different adjusting screws of sebum formation:
It influences the activity of the sebaceous glands and affects the production of sebum, it has a balancing effect and rebalances the hydro-lipid film of the skin.
Niacin is a generic term for nicotinic acid and its derivatives. It protects the skin from harmful environmental influences, pathogens and free radicals and strengthens the skin’s protective barrier. In addition, niacin is a true energiser that revitalises tired and dull skin, providing a fresh complexion every day.
Natural citric acid is obtained from grapefruit extract and is rich in fruit acid, vitamins and flavonoids. On the skin, it acts as an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and helps the skin to renew itself. It gently dissolves dead skin cells, resulting in a fine-pored and even complexion. Thus, it effectively counteracts the signs of ageing and can reduce wrinkles and age spots.
Niacinamide reduces pore size, balances sebum production and provides a more even complexion. In addition, niacinamide has an anti bacterial effect.
Panthenol prevents skin irritations due to its soothing properties. It also moisturises the skin and increases its elasticity, which prevents premature ageing and wrinkles.
Reduction of bags under the eyes, tightening of the upper eyelid and provides an even skin tone under the eyes. For a smoothed and even complexion in the eye area.
The collagen-like plant amino acid complex Phyto Collagen provides collagen building blocks for collagen formation, can increase cell renewal rate and build skin structure.
Phycocolloids and pullulan from red algae reduce wrinkles and smooth the micro-relief of the skin surface. The skin appears smoother, firmer and more youthful.
Pomegranate extract supports the activity of water channels and thereby distributes moisture better in the skin.
The natural polypeptide from winter pea counteracts the breakdown of proteins. Collagen is one of the most important proteins of the skin. The anti-proteasitic property of the active ingredient not only prevents the degradation of collagen, but additionally activates the formation of collagen and elastin, and is important for fibrillation and anchoring. With regular use, the active ingredient provides improved skin elasticity and skin tightening.
The red algae extract moisturises and binds and stimulates the skin’s own hyaluronic acid synthesis. It protects against light stress through its special amino acids, additionally stimulates the oxygen supply of the skin and simultaneously protects as an antioxidant. By stimulating the formation of cell-matrix proteins, the cell layers of the skin are sustainably strengthened. The skin surface is visibly smoothed.
The qualities of Resistem can already be seen in its name: The Latin verb “resistere” means “to resist” in English. Resistem helps to make your skin resistant and strengthen its resistance. Resistem is based on the extract of a plant culture (namely Globularia cordifolia – the globe flower). This extract not only supports the skin’s natural ability to render harmful substances harmless, but also keeps skin cells active for longer. This results in improved skin quality, faster regenerating tissue and particularly deep protection against stress and harmful environmental influences. Thus, Resistem is a valuable active ingredient that visibly and noticeably smoothes and protects your skin.
Retinol is also known as vitamin A1 and can also be colloquially referred to as the fountain of youth vitamin. Because retinol has several positive effects on the skin. On the one hand, it activates the production of healthy skin cells in the upper layer of the skin. On the other hand, it promotes the formation of collagen in the lower skin layers. The result: connective tissue and skin are smoothed and firmed and wrinkles are reduced. Even wrinkles and first lines, that are appearing,can be demonstrably reduced.
Minerals of copper, zinc, magnesium, L-aspartate and gluconic acid vitalise the skin and at the same time increase its oxygen content. They act like an “oxygen shower” for the skin. They protect against free radicals and provide smoother skin.
The exfoliating particles made of sea salt remove dead skin cells and thus refine the skin (mechanical peeling).
Seaweed extract is hand-harvested from the bladderwrack algae on the east coast of Canada. It effectively targets shadows and wrinkles around the eyes – for instant firming and smoothing.
Shea butter is a true all-rounder. It is known for its moisturising, antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory effect. These characteristics make shea butter suitable for the care of irritated, dry and severely stressed skin.
Squalane has a great nourishing and antioxidant effect on the skin barrier. It prevents skin lipids from oxidising, preserves moisture in the skin and reduces water loss from the skin. The result? A better-moisturised skin, in which fewer wrinkles form. Thus, squalane also acts against the well-known dryness wrinkles.
Sunflower seed oil has an antibacterial effect and supports the regeneration of the skin.
Vitamin A stimulates skin renewal. Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis and vitamin E protects against free radicals. Overall, the vitamins support the smoothness and firmness of the skin.
Vitamin C is known for its many benefits. One of the greatest is certainly its strong antioxidant effect. Thus, vitamin C effectively protects the collagen framework of the skin from free radicals and at the same time promotes the production of new collagen. The connective tissue and thus the skin is demonstrably tightened. In addition, vitamin C also has a skin tone-regulating and skin-tightening effect. In addition to the vitamin C ingested with food, the effectiveness can be additionally enhanced by the daily application of the vitamin C-containing Glow Power Serum. Vitamin C, is the super antioxidant for a natural glow and youthful radiance of the skin.
The protein extract from the moth bean is traditionally used for wound healing purposes. The extract has an effect comparable to retinol – and is also power of nature. It supports the regeneration and cell renewal of the skin and stimulates collagen synthesis. This can reduce bags and dark circles under the eyes and prevent dryness wrinkles. The eye area appears smoother, firmer and more youthful.
White Andorn is native to the Mediterranean region and is a very old plant that was already used in ancient Egypt during the time of the Pharaohs. It is rich in Forsythoside B, an inhibitor of inflammatory reactions in the skin and is known for its good protective mechanisms. Harmful oxidative molecules are produced on the skin by pollutants in the air. These destroy the protein and lipid structures in the cell, and thus the structures responsible for cell cleansing. White andorn extract destroys these oxidative molecules and thus protects the cell cleansing systems.
Willow bark extract is known for its anti-inflammatory properties. It nourishes and soothes the skin. In addition, it contains salicylic acid, a natural beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), promotes the exfoliation of cornified skin scales. Thus, the natural process of cell renewal is stimulated and the skin is intensively cleansed. BHAs are equally effective in soothing the skin. The skin is cleansed deep into the pores achieving a fresh and radiant complexion.
Zink PCA ist eine Kombination aus Zink und Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure, die Bestandteil des natürlichen Feuchthaltesystem der Haut, dem sogenannten Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) sind. Zudem wird die Sebumproduktion reguliert. Ist die Haut tagsüber trocken geworden, steigert sie in der Nacht die Sebumproduktion. ZINC PCA wirkt auch einer übermäßigen Sebumproduktion entgegen und reguliert den Fett- und Feuchtigkeitsgehalt der Haut über Nacht.